Several years ago, I discovered the Virginia’s River Realm tourism website while waiting for my car inspection. While I visited several of the towns before, I wanted to fully immerse myself in the region. This blog post discusses the charming towns of Irvington, Kilmarnock, and White Stone on the Northern Neck. The towns of the lower Northern Neck serve as the second of a three-part series about the River Realm. Please read my previous post about Warsaw/Tappahannock and look forward for the final post about the towns of the Middle Peninsula.
River Realm
Before discussing the towns of White Stone, Kilmarnock, and Irvington themselves, let me briefly summarize the River Realm region from my previous post. Virginia’s River Realm refers to a collection of towns surrounding the Rappahannock River, split between the Northern Neck and the Middle Peninsula. The primary attraction of the River Realm relates to the region’s long history on the water, but the area also has a boutique element. However, I focus on the vibes of the region’s small towns, alongside the museums and historical sites.
White Stone
As the first town on the Northern Neck, visitors might pass by White Stone on the way to Irvington, Kilmarnock, and Reedsville. White Stone itself is rather tiny, perhaps the smallest downtown I went to on the Northern Neck. But the town is still worth a stop to check out the charming stores.
Kilmarnock
Kilmarnock has perhaps the biggest downtown on the Northern Neck. Although three different websites ranked Kilmarnock as one of Virginia’s best small towns, I personally think a nearby town deserves that honor. Still, Kilmarnock is worth a stop, as it has the most in terms of amenities. Unfortunately, it rained during my time there, so I was limited to what could be shot under awnings. For a look at Kilmarnock on a sunny day, check my old video here.
For dessert I stopped at Front Porch Coffee House. The restaurant must have once been a house because there are multiple rooms and an upstairs. I recommend having your drink in the sun room with its many comfortable chairs. Or, you could go outside to see the many statues and the Kugel Ball.
Irvington
I decided to save the best for last. Irvington is the town I recommend the most in the River Realm. Not only is it the most charming town on the Northern Neck, it also has the most to do in terms of attractions.
For lunch I ate at The Local, a small coffee shop that serves breakfast and lunch. Besides coffee, the restaurant also serves sandwiches and smoothies. I enjoyed the panini that I had.
Best Things To Do In Irvington
The Steamboat Era Museum is located in downtown Irvington. The Museum tells the story of the steamboats that sailed the Chesapeake Bay. Visitors can step inside the pilot house of the steamship Potomac, which is the largest remaining piece of a Chesapeake Bay steamboat. The Museum had an exhibit dedicated to the many small amusement parks and resorts along the Chesapeake Bay in the late 19th and early 20th century. What surprised me the most was that several of the resorts were built for African-Americans in the middle of the Jim Crow South. Check the Museum often because some things I remember from my last visit of the Museum were no longer there. Museum open on Friday, Saturday, and Monday.
Just outside of Irvington is the Historic Christ Church & Museum, which tells the history of this historic church. Robert King Carter built the Church on his private lands. I learned during the tour that Anglican worship during the Colonial Era focused more on sermons rather than rituals, thus the builders focused more on perfect acoustics than actually seeing the priest. The Church spent the 19th Century under neglect and decay. Through the course of the 20th Century the Church got restored and still functions as a place of worship today. Much of the original structure survived, including the high-backed pews. Museum open May-October on Thursdays through Mondays, April and November on Friday through Sunday, and closed between December and March.
The Tides Inn is the premier hotel on the River Realm, and perhaps the entire Tidewater region. Although I’ve never stayed there, my brief visit of the grounds many years left me wanting more. Enjoy these pictures from my visit there in 2021.
Conclusion
White Stone, Kilmarnock, and Irvington are close to one another and could easily be visited in a single day. I would recommend stopping at White Stone first, then Irvington to visit the museums, and finally ending the day in Kilmarnock for the food and shopping opportunities. Overall, the lower Northern Neck is definitely worth a visit.
For more travel suggestions, you could continue the Northern Neck to Warsaw or Colonial Beach. Conversely, you could cross the bridge to visit the River Realm towns on the Middle Peninsula. For further adventures, you could visit the Hampton Roads area, especially Yorktown and Williamsburg. Or, depending on the time of year, go up to Reedsville and take the ferry to Tangier Island.
For a more detailed look at Irvington, Kilmarnock, and White Stone, please watch the companion YouTube video below.